36 Hours in Kolkata, India (Published 2012) (2024)

CONTEMPORARY narratives of resurgent India frequently sidestep the city of Kolkata, also known as Calcutta, the capital of the state of West Bengal and the seat of power during the British Raj. The city’s political clout has long since shifted to New Delhi, and its economic might more recently to Mumbai. Yet its reputation as an intellectual and cultural hub still lingers — five Nobel Prize winners are associated with the city, including the economist Amartya Sen and the poet-novelist-painter-songwriter Rabindranath Tagore. But like the rest of India, this clamorous yet charming city is changing: in 2011, the democratically elected Communist government of West Bengal was voted out of power after 34 years. For many Bengalis, this political transition reflects a desire to catch up with the rest of India. Visitors exploring Kolkata today are in a position to glimpse an emerging urban modernity but still have the opportunity to explore the city’s rich past, which, for now, remains unavoidable at every step.

Friday

3 p.m.
1. THE SEAT OF POWER

Known during the colonial era as Dalhousie Square, B.B.D. Bagh sits at the political heart of Kolkata. Sidestep the food vendors selling omelets and dosas to the area’s office workers from their sidewalk perches, and admire the colonial buildings where British commerce and administrative functions were once carried out. The most prominent of these is the Writers Building, on the north side of the square, a columnated red brick edifice constructed in 1776 that serves as the seat of the state government, and is now in the hands of the Trinamool Congress party.

5:30 p.m.
2. GALLERY STOP

In the early part of the 20th century, the style of art known as the Bengal School achieved national prominence from its base in Kolkata, exemplified by the works of the painter Abanindranath Tagore, Rabindranath Tagore’s nephew. These muted watercolors, a response to the purported materialism of Western art, emphasized spiritual and natural themes. Though the influence of the school has long since dissipated, Kolkata remains an important locus for Indian art. CIMA, or Center of International Modern Art (Sunny Towers, 43 Ashutosh Chowdhury Avenue; 91-33-2485-8717; cimaartindia.com), a sleek, modern space in South Kolkata, is one of the best places to view it. Recent exhibitions have shown the art of Shreyasi Chatterjee and Paresh Maity, among others.

7:30 p.m.
3. A FULL PLATE

Traditionally, the best way to experience Bengali food, marked by an enthusiasm for river fish and the sharp kick of mustard oil, was inside a Bengali home. If you can swing an invitation to dinner, take advantage of it. But with many women refusing to spend so much time in the kitchen, there are an increasing number of restaurants serving Bengali fare. Of these, it’s tough to beat Kewpie’s (2 Elgin Lane; 91-33-2486-1600), on the eclectically decorated ground floor of a residential bungalow. Come hungry, order the mangshor thali (620 rupees, or $11.50 at 54 rupees to the dollar) and receive your choice of fish, a vegetable and a meat curry, along with rice, dal, dessert and more.

10 p.m.
4. LOUNGE THEN DANCE

Late nights aren’t the same in Kolkata after the recent imposition of a midnight curfew, but dedicated partyers now get an earlier start. Settle into a corner seat at Plush (Astor Hotel, 15 Shakespeare Sarani; 91-33-2282-9957; astorkolkata.com), with a cover charge of 1,000 rupees for two, applicable to drinks and food. You can enjoy a co*cktail while the soundtrack shifts from house music to Western club hits and the dance floor begins to fill.

Saturday

8 a.m.
5. WALKING HISTORY

Economically, Kolkata thrived during the colonial period, with many Bengalis amassing great wealth through trade and service in the colonial administration. A walk through the narrow streets of the city’s Sovabazar neighborhood provides a glimpse at the ancestral estates, which range in style from Islamic to Baroque and beyond, that emerged during this period. There are also print shops, jewelry workshops and other enterprises. Rely on an informative guided tour from Calcutta Walks (91-98301-84030; calcuttawalks.com), which charges 1,500 rupees a person, to make the most of your venture. Afterward, taste another side of Bengali food at Bhojohori Manna, attached to the renovated Star Theater (79/3/4 Bidhan Sarani; 91-33-2533-8519; bhojohorimanna.com). If it’s available, try the super jumbo ilish barishali (225 rupees), a thick steak of this local fish served in mustard sauce.